Maldives Update August 2006

Maldives Update. August 2006

Even though an anchorage fee for cruising outside of Male Atoll (approx $350 USD per island) has been re-introduced by the Ministry of Tourism, following problems with finding a huge drug haul earlier this year, cruising the Maldives is still possible. The anchorage fee ONLY APPLIES TO YACHTS CHECKING INTO MALE.

So to avoid this, you can check in at either Gan in the south or Uligamu or Kulhudhuffushi in the North, ask for a cruising permit for the atolls and just give Male a miss.

Abdullah, the Amsco Agent has given us the following information as an alternative to Male if you wish to cruise any of the atolls. Further information can be obtained from him. Abdullah is an educated, discreet man. It would be prudent to email him to find out about the current circumstances.

Email: amsco@dhivehinet.net.mv

We were told that Kulhudhuffushi is a new harbour in the north that is protected with a new breakwater and yachts can come alongside the pier for water and fuel. It is also possible to check in here and obtain a cruising permit for some of the atolls north. Locals or safari boat captains are a source of good information re anchorages.

Kulhudhuffushi: is approximately 06.35N 073 02E.

On our return to Male in August 2006, we opted to wait outside the Commercial Harbour to check in. All our paper work had been completed by AMSCO and apart from waiting for two hours, check in was relatively painless, although the added expense of 50 USD for the hire of the boat the officials came out in was not welcomed.

We had little wind, which made looking out for traffic easy. Even in a strong wind, it is protected water.

Maldives Information March 2006

MALE/MALDIVES 2006 CURRENT INFORMATION

Tariff:
a) Agency fee: US$ 100.00
b) Entrance fee: US$ 3.92
c) Port State Control Permit: US$ 17.00
d) Anchorage fee: (1) From day 1 to day 15 free. (2) Day 16 to day 45 @ US$ 3.92 per day. (3) From day 46 to day 90 @ US$ 6.92 per day.
e) De-rating Exemption Certificate (Health Certificate): US$ 3.92 (Applicable if you don't have this certificate)
f) Boat hire for clearance (02 trips): US$ 55.00 (If your boat is moored inside the harbour this charge is not applicable)
g) Inter Atoll Traveling Permit: US$ 15.00 (This is applicable if the boat move out of Male waiting anchorage)
h) Crew & Passenger Sign on fee:US$ 15.00 per person.
I) Crew & Passenger Sign off fee: US$ 15.00 per person.
j) Mooring inside Male' Commercial Harbour: US$ 11.92 per day.

Information that needs to be forwarded to agent in order to process formalities.

1. TYPE OF VESSEL: Pleasure yacht
2. NAME OF THE BOAT:
3. FLAG:
4. REGISTRATION NO:
5. DATE OF REGISTRATION:
6. PORT OF REGISTRATION:
7. YEAR BUILT:
8. GROSS TONNAGE:
9. NET TONNAGE:
10. OVERALL LENGH:
11. MOULDED BREATH:
12. DEAD WEIGHT:
13. CALL SIGN:
14. SPEED OF THE VESSEL:
15. NO OF CREW:
16. NAME OF THE MASTER & NATIONALITY:
18. DEPARTURE DATE FROM LAST PORT:
19. LAST PORT:
20. EXPECTED DATE OF ARRIVAL:
21. LAST THREE PORTS STOPPED BEFORE ARRIVAL TO MALE':

Mooring & Anchoring
1) Option One: Come to the waiting anchorage area of Male' , which is located in Western side of Male' and Eastern side of Villgili Island , GPS Position 4°10.285 North & 73°29.784 East, depth 18 meters. Please put an extra rope to the teeth of the anchor to prevent anchor from getting stuck in the rocks. If you take this option boat hire is necessary to transport officials and cost US$ 55.00.
2) Option Two: Mooring inside Male' Commercial harbour. Inside the harbour there is ample of space for maneuvering. However, yachts mooring inside are limited to 04 yachts only. If you are lucky you will get space in the harbour on your arrival. Mooring inside the habour will cost US$ 11.92 per day. When you are at GPS position Latitude: 4°10.94' NORTH & Longitude: 73°29.95' EAST you will clearly see the entrance of Male' Commercial Harbour. I will be standing at the water break wall for line handling of your boat, with a VHF hand held radio. Your boat have to be moored at the water break wall on stern position. (1) Get ready the anchor, and 02 lines at the stern of the boat. (2) Check the wind direction and drop the anchor at a safe distance from the water break wall. (3) Reverse the boat towards the water break wall and throw lines at stern for tying. Remember to keep the boat 15 feet away from water break wall.

What is the clearance procedure?
2) As soon you arrive the gent will come along with the Maldivian Coast Guard Officials for security clearance.
3) Once the Security Clearance by Coast Guard is over the agent will come along with officials from Customs, Port Health, and Emigration for inward clearance.
4) Once inward clearance is over, if you wish you can go to the anchorage of Hulhulale', which is the best anchorage and no mooring fee, situated in the lagoon north of the airport island.

5) Documents need for clearance formalities:-
(a) Passports
(b) Clearance Certificate issued from the last port
(c) Crew list (07 copies)

Is it possible to arrive after dark & during holidays?
- Yes it is possible, but entering to port is restricted from 2300 hours to 0600 hours. Customs, Port Heatlh and Immigration is open from 0730 hrs to 2100 hrs during week days. Friday is (weekend holiday) but concerned offices are opened from 1430 hrs to 2100 hrs. If you arrive Friday morning we will complete security clearance in the morning itself but Customs, Port Health and Immigration will come in the afternoon.

Information:
a) Dogs & Pigs are prohibited bringing to Maldvies. If you have one please divert to some other country or prepared to pay a fine of US$ 450.00.
b) Fire arm and ammunition is prohibited bringing to Maldives. If you have any of the items on board you should have valid license.
c) If you need to import spare parts, and other stuff etc for your boat please use the address of following style. The items import in the name of the boat is import tax free.

(Your boat name......)
C/o. Alliance Management Services Company Pvt Ltd (Amsco)
# 03 - 01 Filaa Building, 3rd Floor
Koli Umaru Manik Goalhi,
Ahmadhee Bazaaru
Male'
Maldives
Tel: + 960 3338788 Fax: + 960 3338688 Mobile: +960 7786444

In the mean time should you need any assistance please feel free to contact me.

Thank you,

Warm regards

Abdullah Jaleel

Alliance Management Services Co Pvt Ltd (Amsco)
# 03 - 01 Filaa Building, 3rd Floor
Koli Umaru Manik Goalhi,
Ahmadhee Bazaaru
Male'
Maldives

Tel: + 960 338788
Fax: + 960 3338688
Mobile: + 960 7786444, 777979
E-mail: amsco@dhivehinet.net.mv
www.amsco.com.mv

***

Maldive Anchorages 2006

ANCHORAGES IN THE MALDIVES FROM MALE TO ADDU ATOLL MARCH/APRIL 2006

JACANA OF MELBOURNE
STOLEN KISS (FREMANTLE)

These notes fine-tune and update the earlier notes of the 1999 yachts.
As we moved south we found that the Maldivian communities had in many cases improved their lagoon entrances with poles, often with lights. The natural openings had been deepened to accommodate the larger safari boats and dhonis.

Jacana We found a fish finder to be a great aid for anchoring in the Maldives. We installed a cheap black and white Navman finder with a puck that is mounted inside the hull and can read through it. It worked this way to about a depth of 30 odd metres. With some practice you can get quite good at reading the composition of the bottom – eg sand, mud, rock. Importantly it let us spot bombies that could snare our anchor chain.
We would always do a slow speed grid pattern over our swinging area.

MALE ATOLL.

MALE
You do need an agent. We strongly advise using AMSCO, Abdullah Jaleel is the principal’s name. He is most helpful both here and with advice as you travel through the islands, and he has an excellent contact in ADDU for clearing out.

We recommend contacting him by email in advance, because if you call him on 16 on approach, other cowboy agents try to hijack you and interrupt radio conversation with constant mike clicking. His address is amsco@dhivehinet.net.mv

Abdullah will advise you to go to the NW of Male’ island to waypoints
04 10.94 N 73 29.95 E. From there he will direct you by handheld VHF into the commercial harbour where you med moor to the wall. It is not that crowded, but put out lots of chain to ensure a hold before backing in. Abdullah is adept at catching the stern lines. Within about an hour he has all the officials on board in the cockpit and the paper warfare is all over in half an hour. The Maldivian officials are polite, friendly and fair.

You usually spend one night here then go about 3 miles over to Hulhumale lagoon with the other yachts and anchor in a man made lagoon. You commute to Male by ferry for about 50 cents Australian. Ferries run half hourly and the ride takes about 20 minutes.

Male is not to be missed. Provisioning is excellent. Local produce is cheap, but for a price you can get almost anything, often imported fresh from Australia by plane; eg lettuce, celery, avocados. The local restaurants near the markets are so good and so cheap, both the short and long eats.

The Maldives are only expensive in the resorts.

Stolen Kiss We cleared into Male and out of Gan, having a one month visa. This can be extended for a price! We had a cruising permit, which we had to produce in Gan. No-one asked for it in any of the atolls and the same went for Jacana. We had a crew who was signed off the boat in Male and was allowed to stay on board to cruise south. (Not usually allowed). This meant our crew could leave from many atolls and return to Male to fly out.
The Med mooring system in the Commercial Harbour was the option check we chose as well to clear in. We would not attempt it in any wind. We tied the dinghy up in the corner of the wharf area. No problems with theft. Two yachts in there at any one time appear to be the maximum as barges cut the corner of the entrance. Time Out had to move at dusk as she was too close to the entrance and a ship needed to leave. However it is cheaper than going to airport anchorage and paying for officials to come over to clear you in.
We all arrived in the first week of March. NE monsoon was not well established so we had variable winds with one or two light squalls from NE, W and SW, but mostly light
W - NW winds, clear skies. Perfect weather!

Jacana chose to cruise the western atolls, whilst Stolen Kiss and Time Out cruised the eastern atolls. We met up in South Huvadhoo Atoll.

Stolen Kiss The winds influenced our choice of anchorages as we stayed on the west side of the atolls. It just so happens that most of the sand bars inside the reef system are on the west side, which meant lots of nice shallow (10m) sandy anchorages! Many islands/resorts now have marked channels through the reef to the lagoons, so it is not difficult to find good sandy anchorages. We did not experience any cross currents or difficult currents entering or exiting atolls or lagoons. We chose to enter and exit the channels and sail on the outside of the atolls, rather than through them. This allowed very pleasurable sailing between atolls, rather than the need to keep a look out on the bow for reef. We had 0.5 – 0.75 kt southerly set with us the whole way down the atolls until the Equatorial Channel, regardless of the state of the tide.

Atolls have various names which can be confusing at times. Malways Atlas of the Maldives (Godfrey) and Lonely Planet are good guides to have on board. They are cheaper from Male bookshops. The atlas is excellent in the assistance with the location of sand patches! We also had Sunsail Cruising Guide and ANTRAC, however, they were only good for resort lagoons in North and South Male Atolls and Ari Atoll.

AIRPORT ANCHORAGE. Hulhumale, North Male Atoll.


Channel has been dredged to 6 m LWS. Depths vary between 6m and 15m.

Entrance is 04º 12.80 N 073º 31 75 E. We turned to stb on entering channel and anchored towards the SE corner which has been dredged to 6m. Here there is protection from all directions as you are sheltered behind the runway. Dinghy up to jetty slightly NE of the main entrance and catch the ferry to Male for 5 Rf. They run almost every half hour.

Fuel barge is located near we anchored in the southern part of the anchorage. No need to organize via agent (who will charge more). Just go to fuel barge and organize him to come along side. They are very good. We refueled via jerry jugs. 0.72 USD/L. If you want any information, ask the local guys on the dhoni boats.

There is a restaurant on Hulhumale up the street behind the ferry terminal.

From the anchorage we took the dinghy to Banana Reef approx 04º 14. 3 N 073º 32.2 E for snorkeling. Southern wall was fabulous with hard and soft coral and amazing amount of fish. Float along with the dinghy as the current is strong.

C-Map appeared to be quite accurate.

SOUTH MALE ATOLL

Valassaru Island – Laguna Beach Resort. Enter from the east. Several sticks mark coral heads. Along eastern edge of reef, there is a stick with orange top at approx
04º 06.469 N 073º 26.077 E which marks a coral head. Enter either side of this. Depth is around 10m. Continue towards resort, navigating around coral heads, most of which are deep. Anchored in 12m at 04º 06.975 N 073º 26.024 E

Club Rannalhi – resort has a lagoon with easy entrance to the north. However, the western most part of the lagoon is the only sand which is free of bommies. One yacht anchored there in 25m. Good protection from reef. Resort had no problems with us being there. We went to south side of island and anchored in sand/coral in 10m. We could see the chain and there was a dive shop on the beach if we had a problem!! Not a favoured anchorage. We had NW wind so were protected. Would not have liked a blow from the W or SW!

WESTERN ATOLLS
SOUTH ARI ATOLL. DHANGETHI ISLAND


Dhangethi is on the west side of the atoll down toward the southern end.

We entered the Kandu to the immediate north of the island. There are assorted items marking a northern entrance just after you pass the island heading east, however, this appears to only be used by shallow draft dhonis.

We kept heading east till we passed the end of the lagoon reef then we swung south down its western edge, ducking the occasional bombies. You can see the seaplane platform in the lagoon. Continue south. Then you spot another pole with a rectangular piece of wood nailed to it. You can weave in here after high tide, but for the deeper entrance keep going south until you are at least 2/3 down the island. Before weaving in through some obvious bombies. You do need to do it at the correct times. Large safari boats roar in and out this entrance. At low tide it had a least depth of 3 metres.

Once in the lagoon most of the bombies are fairly deep. At least 4 or 5 safari boats come in each afternoon to spend the night in this sheltered lagoon.

We anchored in 8.5 metres of sand with 24 metres of chain out, between bombies. This length meant we had no chance of a wrap in the morning. The position was
03 36.41 N 72 57.14 E.

Naeema runs the Cool n Fresh cyber café ashore. Most supplies are available. The little restaurant in the street opposite the cyber café sells good short eats.

NORTH NILANDHE ISLAND . MAGOODHOO ISLAND
Magoodhoo is on the SE corner of the island.

We entered the Kandu to the south west of the island, then conned our way around the reef in deep water, heading in a general NNE direction until we came to the entrance of the first lagoon. This is on the west side of the island and the reef enclosing the lagoon appears like a circle with about 1/8 of the circle cut out to form the entrance.
The entrance is deep, over 12 metres. We then moved in through the fairly sparse but obvious bombies, which are easily seen when the light is right.

The lagoon is generally 12 to 17 metres deep.
We anchored in 12 metres of sand at 3 04.8 N and 72 57.5 E.

Very good drift snorkel at the entrance to the lagoon.

The town has its harbour on the north side of the island, which is lit at night, so anyone who is sick on the other islands can get to the hospital at night. The harbour is not suitable for yachts. The people are so welcoming as always.

SOUTH NILANDHE ATOLL. KUDAHUVADHOO ISLAND
Kudahuvadhoo is at the southern end of the atoll.

After entering the atoll via the large Kandu to the immediate east of the island, we worked our way in a general NW direction along the reef keeping a good lookout for the occasional bombies rising up from the deep water. You need to work your way a long way NW of the island. We ignored the small entrance marked by a stick and a floating yellow plastic jerry can. They appeared too shallow and only suitable for the shallow draft smaller dhonis.

Eventually the reef thins out and it was quite simple in the good light to pick our way in and then head back SW towards the island, as always dodging some bombies.

We anchored in a nice sand hole 9 metres deep, but only wide enough to put out 2.5: 1 chain.

The town is large with good supplies and again so friendly. You can have lunch at Iceline restaurant. There are quite a few stores. We bought oranges, watermelon and frozen chicken from Brazil.

The anchorage was very comfortable in the west to NW that we experienced.

Only enter or leave here in decent light, but otherwise, no particular problems for the careful

KOLHUMADULU ATOLL . VEYMANDHOO
Veymandhoo Island is on the SE corner of the atoll.

Enter the Kandu to the east of Veymandhoo Island; travel west along the northern side of the island. The entrance is just past the NW corner of the island. It is easily recognizable. You enter between 2 main made groins. Poles mark both the inner and outer ends of the groins. The outer pair flashes red and green at night.

Even at low water springs there is a least depth of over 3 metres.

Once through the entrance turn right picking your way through the occasional bombies. We anchored in 7metres in sand with 25metres of chain out with ample swinging room at 2 11.35N and 73 05.34E.

This is a comfortable lagoon anchorage. There is an excellent short eats café near the town’s busy jetty, and the normal shops with some fruit, frozen chicken etc. The people are most welcoming.

We were confident enough, using our reciprocal course, to depart just on dark for an over nighter, with reduced sail to arrive at Thinadhoo in good light the next morning.


EASTERN ATOLLS
FELIDHE ATOLL
This is one of our 5 star anchorages, with protection from SW through to NE. Shallow outer reef provides good protection, although not sure what it would be like in heavy SW swell. Isolated and stunning!

Reef, Maafussaru Kandu – enter in this channel 03º 30.42 N 073º 17. 38E. Minimum depth 8m. Follow reef around until you find the entrance. There are a few bombies to negotiate, but these are easy to see. We anchored in the outer lagoon, which is all sand, turning north when we came to the end of the reef, which had protection from SW through to E. More shallow water could be found towards inner reef in front of us. We anchored in 17m sand at 03º 29.382 N 073º 17.424 E. Just to the south of our anchorage, another yacht anchored in 10m sand. There are more 10m sand patches around. The southern end of the lagoon has more bombies.

Exploring the reef and bombies is worthwhile as there is a lot of new coral growth and an amazing abundance of fish. We saw many hard and soft corals with good variation in colour and fish we have not seen before. We would not attempt to come into this anchorage on a cloudy day.

There is a great view from the top of the light on the outer reef! Large sand bar is worth exploring. There were many manta rays on the sand bar and in the lagoon.
Pod of whales sighted en route to Vattaru Falhu.

VATTARU FALHU ATOLL
Entrance through the one and only channel in the south is straight forward, except that the chart does not show the reef that forms a T junction at the end of the channel, with an east and west exit. Both have adequate depth (no less than 6m). Malways Atlas does show the entrance correctly as it is a Marine Park. We had a forecast of W-NW winds increasing to 15 knots, so we chose to anchor to the west on a sand bank that is sparsely littered with bombies, which are not close to the surface.

We anchored in 10m of water at 03º 13.54 N 073º 24.89 E

Although the snorkeling was a little disappointing as there was a lot of dead coral, we found some very old coral with good variety on the south facing walls of the inside reefs. There were some very old stag horn and plate corals. Visibility in the channel was 20m which allowed us to see manta rays and 2m long Moray eels. Sadly, the fishermen have heavily fished the marine park!! They are friendly and happy to sell their fish (fortunately for us as we are terrible fishermen!)

MULUKA ATOLL (MEEMU)
This is another 5 star anchorage!!
We entered the atoll on eastern side via Mulee Kandu at waypoint
02º 55.931 N 073º 36.510 E. C-Map depth at entrance was not accurate here as minimum depth we found was 26m at entrance. Passage to lagoon entrance is free from bombies. We made our way south past Muli Island and entered lagoon approx 1 mile south at 02º 54.285 N 073º 34.011 E. Channel has a minimum depth of 3-4m at mid tide. Stb hand marker at entrance, leave rock wall to port. Channel can be easily seen. Depth inside lagoon is 7m, sand with the odd bombie. Very clear of obstructions!! Muli Island is the capital of the atoll and has a small harbour entrance that is deep and lit with port/stb markers. Enter there at the N/NW entrance. This is a great anchorage!!!!!!
The lagoon extends for over 6 miles and is easily navigable. We took the dinghy down to Hakurra Club Resort (with the tent like structures) and were welcomed. Smorgasbord lunch was $15 USD per head. They have a great bar!

NORTH HUVADHOO ATOLL
Melaimu, north of Kolamaafushi Island. The NW corner is a wide, easy entrance. Enter at 00º 51.867 N 073º 11.002 E. There is a small island to STB, reef easily seen and is very exposed at LWS. We anchored just to STB of the entrance in 7m of sand behind the reef. Protected from NW – SW, although it would be uncomfortable in heavy NW swell. Further inside the reef it is sandy (can see the bottom in 15m!) and excellent shelter in SW winds. Anchored at 00º 51.152 N 073º.019 E.

Ocean is teaming with marine life here as we saw many turtles, dolphins and fish jumping everywhere. Edge of reef between us and island is good snorkeling as water is clear, many corals and large schools of fish.

A young gentleman paddled out from Kolamaafushi Island and invited us ashore. Great village. He gave us a tour and a load of fruit and would not take any money, so we gave him some cigarettes. He wanted whiskey, but we do not give the Muslims alcohol.

SOUTH HUVADHOO ATOLL (We all came in the same entrance)
Thinadhoo is on the west side of the atoll. We entered the atoll via Footukandu and made our way down the inside. There is a light on the southern edge of the reef which you keep to stb. Stb side of channel is the deepest. Enter channel through reef at approx
00º 31.763N 073º 00 523 E. Keep a weather eye cocked for the obvious bombies that appear, but generally this is a trouble free entry.

Thinadhoo has a large lagoon, which contrary to appearances, is NOT entered from the north. Continue south until opposite the town (fish factory ships are often anchored off the entrance).

The entrance to both the town harbour and the lagoon is just to south of a small island.
It is marked by 2 outer poles, which are lit by flashing port and starboard lights at night. Go straight through the high diddle diddle. There is an inner pole that flashes red at night. Leave this inner pole to port. All the poles are painted with yellow and black horizontal stripes.

Once through the entrance (which we found to have a least depth of about 3.8 metres) hook right. The bottom is top holding sand with many clear areas between small bombies with plenty of swing room. It is a protected anchorage. Sandy lagoon is approx 4 - 5m deep.

Thinadhoo is a large welcoming community with good stores, cyber cafes, short eats, long eats etc. We stocked up with cauliflower, pineapple and bananas. It is one of the better places to get stores in the Maldives.

Fares to the south has a narrow sand patch in front of the reef where the local boats anchor. We anchored in 6m sand at 00º 11.949 N 073º 12.756 E. Sheltered from SW and W, with a bit of fetch from NW. A good starting point for Gan, Addu Atoll as the exit via nearby Vaadhoo Kuda Kandu can be made in the dark. We left before first light. Channel is straight forward; however a large fishing boat sitting high and dry on the reef is a reminder of what can happen!! We set our waypoints up in the afternoon and plotted a course on c-map, which was very accurate.

Jacana We anchored in sand in about 5 to 6 metres that shelved gradually out to about 10 metres before dropping off into coral. We had 30 metres of chain out with ample swinging room. Quite a few boats could find decent sized sand patches here. The anchorage is between the 2nd and 3rd tiny islets from the Kandu to the west. We took the tinny out Vaadhoo Kuda Kandu with a hand held GPS in daylight and found C Map to be accurate. There was a large fishing dhoni high and dry on the reef. Salvage attempts were under way. The skipper had run her up at night.

Although the island looks to be sparsely populated, in fact 2000 odd people live around here. Fares has a cyber café. We never went ashore but were visited by the informative local magistrate who filled us in.

ADDU ATOLL . GAN


Stolen Kiss We entered the atoll via the NW channel at 00º 36.535 S 073º 08.255 E. Entrance is deep and clear. C-Map accurate.

There is a small harbour at Gan across the causeway which is 2 – 4 m deep. Entrance is marked. We went in towards low tide (neap) and shallowest spot was 2.7 m. There are some good sandy spots to anchor, but beware of the tide which sweeps through from the gutter in the causeway. We anchored outside in 18 meters at
00º 41.009 S 073º 08.732 E. Other yachts anchored along Gan in 25 – 35 m. Bottom is reported to be good holding in sand/weed with no reports of coral.

Abdullah’s associate, Mohamed Saeed was our agent here and looked after us very well. We organized some motor bikes to rent to tour the atoll.

Jacana We entered the atoll from the north via Maa Kandu. Vessels entering do so to the east of the island. Departing vessels go west of the island. It was simple to steer via C-Map with a lookout down to Gan. Very few dangers.

There are 2 options at Gan: inside the inner harbour or outside.

The inner harbour is between the islands of Gan and Feydhoo, sheltered to the SW by the causeway. The entrance is on the Gan side. Enter between a prominent pole to starboard and a floating reddish, now almost white buoy to port. Further in leave the next buoy (yellow drum) to port, then the next buoy (yellow drum) to starboard.

The entrance is about 3.5 to 4 metres deep. It is about 4 metres in the harbour. The holding is good in sand, except opposite the sluice in the causeway where the strength of the current has washed the sand away to expose coral. It is safe and comfortable with room for about 6 boats on short chain. The downside is the flies and mosquitoes.

Outside the holding is in sand and sometimes in sand and weed, in depths ranging from about 15 to 25 metres. 16 boats were outside in 2006 and no-one had any trouble with retrieving their anchors. Some needed a few tries to get the anchor to bite because of the weed. There is plenty of room along the Gan foreshore and the flies and mozzies are not a problem.

Construction is well underway on the harbour of Hithadhoo. At sometime in the future the authorities will require yachts to anchor in this new harbour. We viewed it from land and it is well protected, roomy and we were told it is a sand anchorage.

We found that Mohamed Saeed from the Two Plus One Store on Feydhoo to have the best range of supplies, to be extremely helpful and ultra honest. He can arrange most things and expedite clearing out. He is the local contact for AMSCO Yacht Agents who we thoroughly recommend. Mobile 778 1967.

Meandering through the Maldives

After a quick check out of Galle on Thursday 9th March to escape being pounded against the pier wall, (or more to the point, rafted to Time Out whilst she was being pounded against the pier) we anchored over at Watering Point (outer harbour) for two days for a bit of bottom cleaning and R&R. Not wishing to start a passage on a Friday (already having bananas and two women on board, we did not want to push our luck), we up anchored at first light Saturday morning and headed for Male in company with Bill (Time Out).

The shipping lanes were well defined and amazingly easy to cross. Only a small number of fishing boats, a whale and a leaping tuna fish were there to entertain us. Although we motored for the first day, the wind soon filled in from the west, then veered north to allow us to steer a good course. The last 24 hours we were reaching along at 7 -8 knots with two reefs in the main and our headsail – 15 knots of wind on our beam! Another 160 nm run in 24 hours!


Having Di with us meant for very lazy watches, with only 1 night watch for each of us! Although we cruise along nicely with Time Out (Petterson 44), we did become concerned about Bill when he failed to answer his VHF for over 5 hours. We decided to give up our lead and our windward position (did he know we were racing him?) and sail towards him. We eventually raised him on the VHF when we got close, (even after Bill observed us gybing back and forth, still wasn’t enough to entice him into calling us, which only reinforced our concern that something was amiss!) and eventually discovered that it was a problem with his VHF radio. Of course he had a spare on board! Between Peter Di and I, we had already decided how we would get Time Out to Male between the three of us and who would claim salvage rights.

Jacana was a day ahead of us and had organized us to come into the Male Commercial Harbour to clear in. A Mediterranean mooring, stern to the rocks facing the NE and reversing back between Bill and some small commercial boats with continual commercial traffic made for a bit of a challenge. I would not recommend it with any wind. Many other yachts have told of horror stories anchoring in there.

The officials were the friendliest gentlemen we have encountered, with no suggestion of bribes. The Quarantine Officer asked Peter to present a de-ratting certificate within 7 days. As he was saying this, our agent was completing the said certificate, passed it across to Peter, who in turn was able to present it to the Quarantine Officer! Such efficiency! With passports stamped and clearing papers done, off we went to explore Male!



Time Out had to move at dusk as a small ship needed to exit the harbour. We stayed the night then moved the next day to the airport anchorage, Hulhumale, which is 2.5 miles to the north of Male. The northern end of the anchorage, although behind a reef is a little lumpy in westerly squalls and winds, so we moved to the southern end which has 360 degree shelter, as we are tucked in behind the runway. The seaplanes had two runways behind us so we had much amusement with all types of air traffic.

It is not surprising that there is some concern of Male sinking under the weight of buildings! Almost every square meter has a multi story building on it. Some of the new buildings are quite ultra modern and represents a mini Singapore. The colours are unique being varied and bold. Very narrow streets that were never built for cars appear to be squeezed with peek hour traffic on a continual basis. We found some up market cafes (that also had wireless internet) that sold great coffee and chocolate donuts, and the Seagull Café that had some good fries and ice cream!! A walk around the island, perusing the shops and looking at life took about 2.5 hours and worked up a thirst! We visited Male from our anchorage a few times via water taxi which cost us 10 Rf return ($1).

We explored nearby Club Med (circumnavigating the island in the dinghy) and Banana Reef. As this was our first look under water, we were impressed by the new coral and the abundance of fish life. As most of the coral here suffered from bleaching in 1998, the coral is new.

After paying our dues to Abdullah, our agent, and securing an inter island cruising permit (for what reason we are not sure!) we raised the anchor once more and motored a huge 8 miles to our first stop at Laguna Beach Resort on South Male Atoll. Entrance to the lagoon was not difficult and we were able to anchor in sand amidst the bommies. We wandered around the island but were informed that if we wanted to come ashore again it was $15 USD per person!

We moved further south the next day to another resort which was difficult to find sand for our anchor – however we were in 10m of water, could see all and sundry and we had a dive shop on the shore!! Jacana had organized us to eat ashore for $15 USD per person, which turned out to be a fantastic meal! We actually got it cheaper than we should have as someone made a mistake! Lucky for Gorbar as he was paying and he wasn’t even there!!!

One of the yachties is a float plane pilot and a friend of Bill’s, and as it is always good to have friends in high places, we were given some anchorages that he had seen from the air. So by good fortune we found paradise, anchored in a sandy lagoon, with two reefs to windward and one to leeward! Apart from the sandy spit and some rocks that are a pathetic excuse for an island at the entrance, there was no sign of land or human habitation. (However, the odd safari boat and fishing boat ventured past at a distance.)

So there we were anchored in the middle of the Indian Ocean, clear skies, billions of stars, no more than 10 knots of breeze and amazing coral and fishes! Once you put your head under water, a whole new world opened up. There were times when we would turn to look at someone and you could not see them through the fish!! Such an amazing array of corals with sensational colours! We had the great rescue of a manta ray that got caught up in Bill’s trip line and many adventures to the different reefs and Di and Peter climbed the light on the outer reef. It is the different colours of the water that brings the most sensational image to the eyes. The variable colours of the deep blue of the ocean depths, to the azure colour of a sandy bottom at about 10 m of depth, then the opaque lime green over the shallows, although difficult to catch on camera will remain imprinted on our mind.

We continued our way south to a circular atoll, which had a small uninhabited island at the entrance. En route we passed a pod of whales heading in the opposite direction. Many local fishing boats were inside the atoll – the first local fishermen we had seen. We poked around and found a 10m sand patch inside the reef, with protection from our westerly winds. Behind us, at the entrance, a small deserted island with a sand bar made for a good spot to burn some rubbish. A horrid deathly smell on the island alerted Bill to something being amiss. He was on a mission! The culprit was a dead whale that had been washed up on the shore, with teeth already extracted by some enterprising person. We burnt our plastic rubbish and had a snorkel – giant manta rays and some large old corals on one of the south facing walls of the inner reef. With some fine negotiation by Bill (with Di and I assisting) we purchased our first fish (2 fish for 2 USD) and had a B-B-Q on Time Out.

Listening to the SE Asia Maritime Net we heard that the Brits have asked all the yachts in Chagos to leave for the first week in April. So we are in no hurry to head down there as yet! What a place to sit back and relax!!!! The Maldives certainly deserve months of exploring, and we only have one month!

We had heard from another yacht of the massive trees that had washed up on the reefs in the Maldives. We had not seen any until Meemu Atoll, which I guess is where the Equatorial Ocean Current reaches the Maldives. The north east reefs around Meemu and the next two atolls south were littered with such trees. They look like small islands from afar! Yachts last year were lucky not to have hit one of these. The locals say the trees are from Ache.

We had no notes on anchorages in Meemu Atoll, but Lonely Planet mentioned the villages on the local islands. Sounded good to us! A significant swell was running which transpired into huge surf along the shore. We could not see the entrance until we were quite close. It was late afternoon and an anchorage was needed before the sun got too low.

Peter and Di launched the dinghy and did a ‘reckie’ into the harbour and Bill surveyed further south where it looked likely to be a channel into the lagoon. Both were successful and it was decided to take the later entrance, which turned out to be the better anchorage. We had inadvertently stumbled onto another piece of paradise! The two local islands were typically Maldivian with their swept sandy streets with walled, coral houses. They also had ice cream!! There was much re-building due to tsunami damage. The colours of the water were phenomenal – such brilliant aquamarine and brilliant lime green in the shallows. (The later is reflected in the sky from a distance.) This lagoon ran for about 6 miles that we could see.

A resort 4 miles down looked interesting, so off we set in the dinghies. A great run in flat water. We were allowed to wander around the resort, offered reading books for free and were welcomed (of course) in the bar! It certainly was a bar with a view to die for – speaking of which, Di and I took the opportunity to add to our exotic locations in the world for enjoying Pina Coladas!

The sail to Huvadhoo Atoll was a night sail. Di had saved a bottle – Wolf Blass no less, to send off a message. At 0200 at the designated latitude, I woke Di up to complete the task. After blinding ourselves with the need for photographic evidence, the bottle sailed over the rail and into the night. Wanting to share our fun we gave Bill a call on the VHF. (Who sleeps at this hour anyway?) Two hysterical women in the wee hours of the morning..well, what can one say? Peter slept through the ordeal…..or at least pretended to!

We had notes on a sand bar to the north of the island which we think we found and anchored 6m sand. The atoll was alive with dolphins chasing tuna and leaping around with absolute gay abandon. Early afternoon an apparition appeared in the guise of a local lad on a surf board, who promptly scampered aboard and helped himself to some cigarettes. We were invited ashore to his island (Kolamaafushi) and were asked not to talk to anyone else! We were obviously his ‘prize’. Of course Di and I stopped to speak to some gentlemen sitting under the tree (as they do in the afternoons) and were reprimanded for doing so. We were beckoned to ‘come come’ as we were a little slow and more than the customary 5 paces behind our host and Peter. He paraded us around the village, wanting nothing but to show us friendship. We were given fresh tropical fruits and invited to sit with his family for a fresh coconut drink.

Next morning we made our last 21 miles to get to Thinadoo for Di to fly back to Perth. A great sail on the outside of the atoll. Bill caught a shark and called us up to ask what he should do with it? The temporary silence on the radio was our surprise that he was asking us. Whilst we were bouncing around comments, the shark took a dislike to being dragged along the side of Time Out and promptly bit through the steel tracer and swam off with all and sundry. Problem solved!

We finally caught up with Jacana, with Yo and Dan cooking us an amazing meal. We swapped stories and invited 3 local guys, one of whom new Dan’s cousin as she frequently comes to Male as a surfing guide. As it happened, the owner of the safari boat was a Maldivian national cricketer – opening batsman. Martey, the surf guide, invited us over for lunch the next day. What a wonderful farewell for Di! They took her off to the airport in their safari boat and Di got her wish of getting to the airport in the dinghy as they had to take the dinghy the last 100 meters.

A few more rest days hanging out at the island, finally satisfying our ‘tub of ice-cream hunt’, which entailed sitting on a shop step with three spoons and a tub of chocolate ice-cream, to the amusement of the locals. (The last time Peter, Bill and I did this was in Kalumburu Mission, Kimberley.)

It was now time to head to our last anchorage in the atoll, which was a good launching point for the final leap to Gan, our last Maldivian Atoll. Our anchorage was in a shallow sandy spot which butted up to a reef with more dolphins leaping about with even more gay abandon, herding tuna that, in response, were jumping clear of the water – various dive combinations – double pike landing on back, single dive, triple pike.

The anchorage also had a local flotilla anchored with us..its great when you get the best local anchorages. We departed the sand patch in the dark at 0445, as we had done a bit of a reconnoiter the previous afternoon and charted our passage out through the reef. A fishing boat was high and dry on the reef next to the channel – even the locals can get it wrong!

We motor sailed the Equatorial channel so we could make the anchorage in good light. Clear skies..but now we are winter!!! Bill was not far behind, sporting the 9th hole under his water line (with a few barnacles as well!) We crossed equator at 0745 on the 8th April offering Neptune rum and a Koala Bear, for Di.

There were 15 yachts in Gan and we were the first 3 to arrive without flying a yellow flag. What an absolutely amazing cruising ground. Having motor biked along all the islands in Gan, bunkering and provisioning complete, we left Gan at 0830 on Thursday 13th April to make our last southing to Chagos. We are hoping for some wind at least – being careful what we wish for!